Wed July 27th
Left Darlington at 02.10 to miss rush hours! Good journey with coffee stop over the Forth Bridge and breakfast at Inverness. Arrived John O’ Groats at noon where it was sunny, cool and breezy. Had a picnic lunch and then drove 3 mls west to Gils Bay, where we watched our ferry coming over. We boarded and went up on deck to watch the “interesting” waters of the Pentland Firth and saw seals, dolphins and lots of sea birds.

The cheapest way across is using the passenger ferry from John o'Groats	Jenny stands by the famous sign...	I was surprised to see them trying to fit the ferry intot he harbour...
...but no problem!	Look away from the tat and John o'Groats is a very picturesque place.	Gills Bay is the Scotish home of Pentland Ferries, the cheapest car...
...option. They receive no subsidy, but operate out of much less ...	...developed ports. This is an old floating dock which is being filled...	...with rubble. Jenny didn't explore quite so far!
The older harbour is small and functional...	...populated by a few fishing and work boats, plus a couple of leisure...	craft. This beast beat the ferry in, then spent ten minutes turning around...
...avoiding this fishing boat and leaving.	The ferry's an old Caledonian Macbraine, showing how ferries...	...used to be desingned and built.
It was a simple drive through, single car deck boat, and unlike modern...	...space optimised multi-deck ships. Did the job, though.	Jenny admires the filling of the dock!
The waters of the Pentland Firth are not to be tackled lightly.	Tides run at up to 14 knots (you can water ski at 12!), and there are	many swirls and massive standing waves if the wind gets involved.
We had a flat crossing, but the various patches on the water	hinted at what was going on underneath.	Loads of wildlife. Unfortunately, this is my best picture!
Orkney has a varied coastline	and as my first approach by sea and	Jenny's first visit we enjoyed our
first impressions.	St Margaret's Hope, the Orkney base for Pentland Ferries has a	turn mark supported by an old ladder.
There's also an old radio ship parked there.	A pretty enough village, quiet except when a ferry is due or has docked!

The hour’s crossing was a mix of sun and drizzle, but always windy. Arrived St. Margaret’s Hope on South Ronaldsay and we proceeded north over the Churchill barriers, linking S. Ronaldsay with Burray and the ‘mainland’ (as they call the main island). The barriers built by Italian prisoners of war to block Scapa Flow. Drove through Kirkwall (capital on the east) and round by the harbour, then over to Stromness (2nd – and only other -town on the west), where we had a quick wander to T.I. (J) and fishing tackle shop (S), then on north to the Birsay area. Found our self catering house and met Sam and Rachel, sisters who had each moved up since their parents retired here from Birmingham. Sam’s husband got a transfer a year ago from West Midlands Police Force to Orkney – the crime scene’s a bit different! Both very chatty and the house was in a pleasant setting above Boardhouse Loch, with views across the Brough (“brock”) of Birsay and beyond………………..Canada.
After being up for 14+ hrs, we flopped a bit, then had a drink. Beautiful tasting water? My word for it’s taste was ‘mouldy’ – having first checked the mug, then the teabag, then the milk, it finally came down to the water. Jeff (the retired father) was outside, so I went and said hello (he is not in good health, though very warm and chatty) and he said there have been problems since a year ago, when the local water treatment works were upgraded with European money. We found out during the week that the local loch was low and algae blooms were high and this had given the water an “earthy” taste, according to Scottish Water, but it was safe. Shame it wasn’t drinkeable! Rachel has heard it on the news that evening and rushed out and got us 6 bottles of water. We made a simple meal and headed for bed.

Thurs 28th
J woke to S already out. First fishing trip to the local loch (Boardhouse) to try out his new float tube that brother Keith had given him for his birthday. He had a few nibbles at his line. Set off after 9 for Stromness and ‘Julia’s Bistro’ for coffee and bacon rolls, then wandered the main street, called in on a Solicitor/Estate Agent to see what’s for rent (not much) and then bought the 2 local papers – Orkney Today and The Orcadian – to see if there are any adverts for houses to let or boats to buy! Wandered again by harbour and saw Thor Hyerdhal , a German Tall Ship. We were invited on board to have a look and were shown around by a young German lad, one of the students. They had come from Keil in Germany and were going on down the West Coast of Britain.. It was a lovely bright, sunny morning and windy of course. Wind will now not be referred to unless there is none – fairly rare - or more than usual.
Next stop Kirkwall (about 20 mins drive) to visit 2 Estate Agents. There were 2 large cruise ships docked in the harbour, so town was busy for a few hours. We walked the main street and stopped in the Christian Book Shop where we had a natter about churches and life on the island (the shop assistant was a ‘ferrylouper’ – incomer). Enjoyed a late fish and chip lunch sat on the harbour wall in the sun. Visited the Library where we met Sam (daughter who saw us in to the house) and her policeman husband and young daughter and then checked e-mail. Food shopped then (including French bottled water – in Orkney!!), drove back through Finstown, a large village between Kirkwall and Stromness, overlooking the sea where there were some holiday chalets to enquire about winter letting – “maybe”. Took the road round the East side of the mainland and stopped short of Birsay at Loch Hundland for S to fish. J enjoyed walking round the edge of the loch and nearly trod on a baby gull (?) in a nest, saw oystercatchers, red shanks and curlews flying around nest sites and lots of flowers – identified later as ragged robin, marsh cinquefoil and water mint. S flippered his way back to the shore without any fish, but he’s getting used to the tube. Supper, reading, news and bed.

It's not easy to be elegant when wearing thick neoprene waders,	a pair of flippers and a large inflatable seat!	Once on (or in) the water, though, this is a great experience, and	much easier than carting a boat around.

Fri 29th
Steve’s 40th birthday! He had gone off early to fish Loch Skail. Back for a birthday breakfast of porridge – mmm – then to Kirkwall via Woodwick burn Mill on the east coast – a derelict mill for sale – with a fixed price rather than the usual Scottish ‘offers over’ system with a final closing date for bids. It was VERY derelict! S attempted a haircut in Kirkwall, but it was far too busy, so we bought some more water and drove on to Deerness, via a loo and coffee stop at the Airport to look at prices. Deerness is an area in the east and we did a walk around the headland – The Mull of Deerness – where there was a ‘gloup’ – a collasped sea cave, a 10th C chapel ruin and lots of geology and sea birds. There was even a modern shipwreck – the hull of a plastic yacht washed up on a rocky beach. We picked a path to head back to the car park and it turned out to be close to nesting Great Skuas, who were huge and weren’t happy. We gave in – their display was convincing! We then nearly trod on what we thought was a dormouse, but when we looked it up, it was an Orkney vole! Called in at the Airport on the way back for a loo and coffee stop, then to Lock of Kirbister for more fishing. J had a doze. S caught 2 small trout! Home to eat and enjoy them.

The Gloop	Various Deerness coast shots. It did	rain, but short showers. The walk we did
took ages, not because of weather	or terrain, just because of fascination.	In such a small area, to have obvious
and exposed references to many ages of history,	geology and wildlife was great.	Loads of little inlets
and wierd sounds as water and wind whistled	through holes.	Major nesting sites here for several species.
	These birds just seemed to be practicing their	landings and take offs. Lovely use of wind...
....	Probably not shared by the master of	this vessel!
		At a distance, the Great Skua was simply an
interesting "what's that?" question.	As we approached we understood	the relevance of the word "Great".
We went round!	Orkney vole, nibbling away at the edge of the path. Just avoided stepping on it!

Sat 30th
S didn’t go fishing this morning! After our usual breakfast of porridge we went to Kirkwall to visit the farmer’s market. Just a few stalls, but we did make contact with Elizabeth, a friend of a Darlington friend, on the Orkeny Organic Meat stall. S then went for a wander and J went to the Wrigley sisters music shop and café and wrote paostcards with a coffee. We met up at 12 for a concert in St. Magnus Cathedral, by the Selkies (mermaids) who were 3 17/18 yr old girls playing accordian and violins. They gave us an hour of folky/trad tunes and were very enjoyable. We spent some of the afternoon driving around the Deerness area (South East) trying to locate several properties that we’d seen in the Estate Agents window –failed, but we got an idea of the area. Enjoyed a windy and dry day today. Back west and home for a nap. Ate in and stayed in.

Sun 30th
Had a lazy morning – S didn’t go fishing again and we eventually set off for church at 11.30, in Finstown. Church of Scotland, well attended and OK but a bit dour and the minister liked to pray! We chatted briefly to a couple of folks and then set off back to Birsay to the Community Centre where there was a car boot sale. Very busy – we bought some strawberries and a hair trimmer – S needed a cut and it was a cheaper and easier way to achieve it. Back home for lunch. J hung some washing out as it was sunny and had a good chat with Jeff and Cindy who came out to be sociable. S was missing his fishing, so mid afternoon we went out and while S fished on Loch Harray, J had a lovely walk, first round the historic site of the Ring of Brodgar (Stonehenge like) and then on round an RSPB reserve on the edge of Loch Stenness. S caught a 17” yellow bellied brown trout – lovely to look at, so we went back for another fish supper. It had a mild taste of the musty water, but was more edible that the water!

Mon 31st
Steve’s early fishing paid off with two beautiful trout from Swannay. After porridge we set off to Kirkwall early-ish to visit Estate Agent and try and arrange viewings of some properties. 1st one in St. Mary’s village, Holm (“ham”) in the south of Mainland, next to the Churchill Barriers. We had a wander around the harbour and village and then Orley Cottage. Quite sweet, old, with 2 extra dormer rooms, not quite head height for us. On to the Deerness area for lunch overlooking a bay before visiting Dingieshowe – a bungalow in a stunning position, on a beach between 2 bays. Very tempting! Back to Kirkwall and we had a helpful phonecall to a solicitor in Stromness about buying a house and then to an Insurance Broker in Kirkwall to see about insurance on this property. Back home to get ready to go back to Kirkwall to meet Elaine Grieve, Steve’s boss to be for a meal out in ‘Orkney Hotel’. Lovely evening – good food (much of it local) and excellent company. Oh – weather note – NO WIND, mild, and sunny a lot of the day.

Views from and of St Mary's.
The House we looked at just peeks over...
Dinghy's Howe. Not the best of houses...	...but the beach belongs to the house.
	Lovely fish!	Swannay Loch
	Italian Chapel	Skara Brae
		People seemed inspired by the village to build - there were loads of different structures and standing stones all over the beach.

Tues Aug 1st
Off to Kirkwall for 9 to see about insurance on Dingieshowe (no problem) and to collect a key from the Estate Agent for a house and off to St. Mary’s village again. We had time to visit the Italian Chapel (built by the Italian prisoners of war, who also constructed the Churchill barriers). We arrived just as 2 coaches arrived, but were able to appreciate it and then we went to Orkland, a 6 bed dormer bungalow just on a hill outside St. Mary’s village. Potential in the house, but not much garden. The vendor is school secretary in the local primary and knew Steve’s predecessor. We headed south across the barriers to look at an empty bungalow in St. Margaret’s Hope (where we had arrived by ferry) and then back north and east to find Orkney Organic Farm where friends of a Darlington friend live and introduced ourselves. Had a pleasant half hour with them and then found a pretty beach for lunch. Steve had a power nap and Jen got chatting to a couple from Pontefract also looking at houses, wanting to move up. Next appointment was a plot of land for sale with various derelict barns which had been started on, plus a large nissen hut turned into a huge workshop. It had been a lovely mild sunny morn, but it was now raining, though the wind pushes it away quickly. Back to Kirkwall to return the key and have a drink in the Wrigley sister’s café and on to Stromness to see the solicitor. We had a good meeting with her to clarify how the Scottish system works(!) and we agreed to try putting a quick offer in on Dingieshowe, subject to a survey which we could book for the following week. We drove back along the west coast to Skaill Bay for a lovely walk along a beach and up to Skara Brae, a superbly well preserved Neolithic settlement. Back along the beach where various folks had had a go at building their own structures with stones on the beach and one man who was in the process of building a wall around himself in the style of Skara Brae. Steve had ½ hr’s fishing in Loch Skaill, but no takers and J sat in the late afternoon sun writing p/cards. Back for supper and a lovely sunset over the Brough of Birsay (“brock”) (the island). Had another chat with Jeff watching the sunset.

Wed 2nd
A bit wet and wild today with sunny intervals. Off to Stromness first, to view an ex council house – house fine, but not so sure about the environs. Called on solicitor, but busy, so went for a wander along the main street, visited the fishing shop and had a coffee (but had to return it as it tasted ‘earthy’ (mouldy!) and had another one made with better water. Back to see the solicitor to be updated and agree terms! S had fish and chips and J waited for poached egg back at base. S had a nap and J pottered and then we went to Kirkwall to join in the St. Magnus fair and see the Kirkwall pipes and drums in the main street. Back for supper and to start clearing up.

Thurs 3rd
S had a last fish, then breakfast and packing up and off to Stromness to see solicitor. Our quick offer has not been accepted and they are going for the Scottish system of a closing date, so we have a couple of weeks to try and sort out an offer. We then went and had a 2nd look around the house before heading across the Churchill barriers to St. Margaret’s Hope and the ferry at 12. We were entertained on the trip back to Gils Bay by a bagpiper – just a passenger who “ if I haven’t got my wife with me I have my pipes”. Chatted a bit to him – he and 3 other pals had just had a jolly to one of the islands to check out the duck and goose shooting scene for a Polish family who had bought an estate there. Also on board was Robin Cook, so we were probably among the last to see him. Landed and started the long journey back, but it all went well and with a couple of stops (supper on the border) we were home by 11pm.

Our piper on the return crossing.